Thursday, 9 May 2013

Entry 10: Body Adorned part 3

Body Adorned Part 3
The Gendered Body

Cross dressing was common all throughout history. Females weren't allowed on stage until the late 17th century.

Definitions
Sex=the biological characteristics of male and female
Gender= the socially and culturally produced attributes of "femininity" and "masculinity". Gender differences are not 'fixed'
Sexuality= the way one individual expresses desire for another, there are different sexual identities other than heterosexuality and homosexuality

Historical gender roles and relations
Breward (1995) culture of Fashion
‘The control of masculine and feminine appearance was constantly kept in balance, reflecting the authority in vested in constructions of patriarchal behaviour and demeanour, and the subserviant position of femininity in social discourse.’

The knight: masculine ideal
The romance of Alexander (1338-1344)

  • Chivalry
  • Protection
  • Perfect virtue
  • Defender

"Medieval superstars of masculinity"

The embroiders: feminine ideal
Album amicorum of gervasius fabricuis (early 17thc.)

  • Nurturer 
  • Mother
  • Wife
  • Purity
  • Home maker/tender
The courtier: ideal gentleman
Mattaus schwarz 1520-60
  • Self possessed 
  • Good etiquette 
  • Highly esteamed
  • Cultured
  • Educated 
The reader and the lover
Boucher (1756) Madame de pompadour 

Even after her affair with the king of France died down she held the kings interest by reading, staying educated, and keeping up on current affairs.

Mengs (circ. 1760)
Giacoma Casanova 

Celebrated pleasure. Upperclass. Seeking gratification. Egocentric. Many men would keep journals of their sexual conquests.

The Nurse and the Hero
caring patient vs. self sacrifice courageous

Sailors would have to do everything on ships including the duties that were usually considered "women's work", such as cooking cleaning etc.

The feminine world was calm women were considered to be almost decorative


20th century was one for man changes for women, in the late 19th c. suffragettes appeared (1910) grim but steely determination 

Simone de Beavoir (1949) the second sex "one is not born a women but becomes one"

Feminism
15th c. PISAN (1405) "city of ladies" was written by a nun. she argued that women were capable of doing anything that a man could do

Micheal Foualt - Sexuality

  • critical of all the previous accounts including psychoanalytical ones
  • Sexuality is a set of discourse 
  • This explores power relations: anything outside 'heterosexuality' is seen as abnormal and perversion
  • therefore sexuality discourses are a powerful form of control and regulated in society
  • discourses that tell us how to experience and use the body -social constructionist
  • Sociological rather than biological factors shape sexuality
Judith Butler (1990) Gender Trouble

The Ladies of Llandogen
two irish ladies who moved to wales in the 19th c. supposedly a lesbian couple, the would often dress in mens clothing together.

Interesting how the 20th c. early ideals of beauty boyish short hair flat chested

claude cahun
diana arbus
david bowe

 






Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Entry 9: 3D shaping and padding

3D shaping and padding 
With Glenda H.

make sure that your creations are,

  • neatly finish in and out
  • hard wearing 
  • machine or hand washable 
  • comfortable and as cool as possible 
  • comfortable crotch fitting (if applicable)
  • easy to get on and off 
Also think about ,
  • budget 
  • number of uses 
  • different materials that could be used 
reticulated foam- breathes-good for large suits, such as muscle suits- can be sculpted- easy to compress (depending on density)

upholstery foam-doesn't breathe 

can also cast in latex foam 

Always start by researching body shapes 
Make a base, catsuit (Book: the art of fashion draping), or torso and arms (leotard?). When making base the largest stretch of the lycra needs to go around the body Note: use ball point needle when sewing

Build up your padding so that it's dense enough to not be able to be smooshed in

a foam shape can be put underneath padding

careful no to stitch to the stand 

on the edges of wading it's important to feather it out so as to avoid harsh edges

experiment with padding and it's movement

Plastizote- yoga mat foam, can heat and stretch as well

you can use felt to create 3D shapes

can steam felt to create shapes 
can use PVA to coat and give plastic or metal effect on felt

best way to cut foam is with an electric carving knife

can use scissors to create angle on foam edge

contact adhesive=good for plastics

fos shape thermo plastic

can be used to make light weight structures 

Some foam costumes I found online :)



Entry 8: Art Deco Head Dress

Art Deco Head dress
with Sean and Hillary

Not necessarily a modern interpretation

 The Great Ziegfield. Don't be afraid to think of the head dress as part of an ensemble

Folies bergers
moulin rouge

Play with lightness and sparkle

there is something cute about show girls

look for an effect (springs?)

myrna loy
greata garbo
 lucy doriane
 bebe daniels
 anna may won
Head measurements for my model around head 21" brow to neck base 14"

Here are some of my ideas for what I'll be doing as well as the inspiration behind them 





Friday, 3 May 2013

Entry 7: Body Adorned Lecture 3

Body Adorned Lecture 3: The Classical Ideal

Drapery
Greeks idealized the young male body
This was a time where use of gymnasiums,and health and fitness where highly thought of.

Drapery reappears in the late 17th C. 
Molding the body, 
shaping the body through corsets 



"exactly Venus's measurements" Lithograph 1830
Mr. Pearl
Lace in Pad out

Other cultures ideals of beauty,
Chinese foot binding
      -aristocratic
foot is broken and bent under. shoes were dainty, embroidered.
Height of foot binding 18-19th c.
went on until about WWI

Africa, scarification, lip rings (plate lips), gauged ears, elongated necks 
Fashion will also use padding and such to emphasize different parts of the body 

The Aesthetic Movement 
Liberty Gown 
Objecting to the tightly laced new ideals of beauty, celebrating the natural shape, fitness, and health.

It's not until the 19th C. that leisure fitness becomes popular

Image Icons 
Marilyn Monroe

Today fashion is obsessed with youth and the slender '0' boyish figure

Consumer culture 
our culture today is all about how we can change our bodies though, gym, diet, cosmetic surgery etc.

Micheal Foucault Philosopher 

  • body building 
  • tattooing 
  • cosmetic surgery 
  • piercing 
Who controls your body?

Entry 6: Body Adorned Lecture 2

Body Adorned Lecture 2: The Perfect Body
Motherhood and fertility are valued in African culture and art. Fertility dolls or motherhood figures are idealized images that carry magical powers.

 Later the painting of the nude 

Currently our culture idolizes youth, we fight to stay young 
In older painting the nude body is emphasized by adornment, i.e. jewelry, scarves, velvet, chiffon.
In the 15th century pictures of women in the nude had a particular shape. This could be because men thought that women were shaped like their clothes 


Anne Hollendered - Seeing Through Clothes 
Which one was painted first?

Maya clothed and unclothed GOYA 1803





Wednesday, 1 May 2013

entry 5: looking back

Looking back on my Tudor costume to make sure it's ready for The Queen's Gallery in May.

what NEEDS to be done,
  • shorten under lacing on bodice
  • fix placket 
  • add hook and eye to skirt and bodice back
  • move hook and eyelets on skirt

what could also be done,
  • add a second piece to gable 
  • redo the pendent
  • cross for rosary
Also, gather fun facts for model and get one more fitting



Entry 4 :Work Placement

Still no luck getting work placement, and I just feel completely defeated. I don't understand why no one wants me, and why i'm struggling so much. I never had these kind of problems in the states. It certiantly isn't for lack of trying, I've been e-mailing, calling, and just showing up to places trying to find something. So far I've been ignored, told that there's no more room, or my favorite so far that I had "to much experience" and would learn anything so they wanted to give it to someone else.